Finding The Right Shampoo Bar
Ok sweeties I thought I would write a little blog about shampoo bars and why some people, well lots actually, are not getting results with their newly purchased products. I have had a lot of questions from customers and general queries saying that their shampoo bars (from other suppliers) are not working. They are leaving the hair dry and greasy in the wrong places, hair is also sticky and generally icky. The reason for this is because there are many brands on the market selling their COLD PROCESS NATURAL SOAP as shampoo bars. This is very naughty. There is this belief also going around that ACV (apple cider vinegar) rinses are needed to make these "shampoo bars" work for the hair. Another myth is the "TRANSITION PHASE" which is absolute cods wallop, all that's happening is your hair is getting damaged. If your hair is a mess after washing with said so called shampoo bars, there is something wrong. I will tell you what is happening.
Look at the ingredients of the product you are using. If it is the soap I am explaining about the ingredients will usually sound something like this:
Sodium Olivate, Sodium Castorate, Sodium Cocoate and more often than not other "Sodium (oil type) -ate" This is saponified oils such as coconut oil (Cocoate), olive oil (Olivate) and heaven forbid... castor oil (Castorate) the latter having a viscosity I can only describe as lip gloss and is an absolute no no for good hair texture! The same applies to glycerin with the sticky feel, which is produced through the process of the soap's chemical reactions, glycerine is good for skin but it will leave a heavy film on the hair. So to summarise, these formulas are COLD PROCESS SOAP some call it "natural soap" I make a lot of it so I know the deal. I have tried to use my soap on my hair in the past too when I was messing with new ideas, it doesn't work.
Cold process soap can never be shampoo. It is too alkaline for the hair. It is great for skin but hair needs a carefully PH balanced product to keep it from being damaged. I'm guessing that the idea of ACV is to balance out that high PH level the hair has just been subjected to to make things all better, no, this is now exposing the hair to a PH too low for the hair, plus it really pongs.
Shampooing hair should be an easy process. It can now be a much healthier and environmentally kind thing to do in the form of a solid bar, thanks to newer surfactants being made that are improved. My shampoo bars are made using a mild surfactant called Sodium Coco-Sulfate.
It does sound a little similar to the ingredients I listed above that appear in soap bars but it has the sulfate part. Now many of you will start to worry: ARGHHH SULFATES! This is another mountain of Chinese whispers that have gotten out of control with well to do consumers and fear mongering folk about carcinogenic nonsense that have no scientific reports to back their nonsense. It's not so much the "sulfate" that is a problem but the amount of irritant certain sulfate surfactants can contain such as the very harsh but cheap Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate (SLS & SLES). I would NEVER use those in my products, personally I can't use them too, my skin is way too sensitive to them. Here's some facts about Sodium Coco-Sulfate:
Sodium Coco-Sulphate (SCS) has a larger molecule than SLS & SLES. This means that SCS will sit above the epidermis nicely and rinse off well, whereas the smaller molecules of the SLS & SLES can lodge into the epidermis skin cells, stick around even after rinsing which in turn causes irritation.
SCS is made using ONLY COCONUT as the raw material. A few folk are saying that SCS is 50% Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. This is incorrect. There is approximately 50% lauric acid in the fatty acid profile of coconut oil but the resulting compounds are Sodium COCO-Sulfate, NOT Sodium COCOYL Sulfate. Huge difference. See the "YL" there.
SLES & SLS are made using isolated Lauric fatty acids derived from palm oil and also petroleum derivatives. Palm oil as a whole including so called sustainable palm oil is cheap but it is destroying the rainforests and countless species of precious wildlife.
SCS is much more expensive to buy that cheap irritating, eco-unfriendly surfactants such as SLS, but it is worth it where I stand as a manufacturer who cares about her customers and the environment.
My shampoo bar range is designed to also lightly condition the hair so some of you will find you do not need to condition your hair! If you have very dry or long hair you might need a bit of conditioner. I use wild harvested babassu oil from the rainforest in the Maranhão region of Brazil. This helps to support rainforest conservation and the livelihood of the indigenous people. I also use carefully selected botanical ingredients to complete the spa inspired formulas synonymous with Little Blue Hen Soap & Skincare.
Thank you for reading!